Valea Izei

Satul Vadu Izei, cunoscut pentru meşteşugarii săi şi pentru sculptura în lemn, se află la unirea a două râuri importante, Iza şi Mara, la aproape 7 km sud de Sighetu Marmaţiei. Populată încă din Epoca de bronz, dovadă stând brăţările şi monezile din argint, satul este atestat prima dată în 1383, cu numele Satul lui Lupu. Acum, nu este doar unirea celor două drumuri aici, ci şi unirea a două drumuri importante, DN 18 cu DJ 186, care oferă o importanţă notabilă satului.

În Vadu Izei există pictori care fac icoane pe sticlă, precum Ioan Borlean; ţesători precum Maria Moldovan şi Ileana Borlean, persoane care fac pături sau covoare cu lână vegetală vopsită; şi oameni care fac coşuri împletite, precum Mihai Petreuş, care face coşuri minunate şi alte obiecte folosind răchită şi alun. De asemenea, există în zonă numeroşi muzicanţi şi cântăreţi, iar oamenii din Vadu Izei nu sunt numiţi dobaşi degeaba.

În concordanţă cu acestea, în fiecare an în iulie, există Festivalul Nuntilor. Grupuri de cântăreţi populari şi dansatori vin din toată zona Maramureşului, din alte părţi ale României şi chiar din străinătate, pentru a interpreta cântece sau dansuri legate de nunta tradiţională.
Există un mic muzeu, Casa memorială a lui Vasile Kazar, lângă noua biserică Greco-Catolică. Aceasta este o gospodărie din secolul al XVIII-lea, cu obiecte vechi şi textile, care arată cum vieţile sătenilor continuă pe aceeaşi linie.

În afară de pensiunile bine stabilite, există şi un punct de informaţii pentru turişti, lângă primărie şi poştă. De aici se pot cumpăra hărţi şi cărţi despre regiune, diverse obiecte de artizanat (icoane, olărie, costume, măşti, etc.) sau se poate angaja un ghid local pentru turul satelor din apropierea văilor râurilor.

Următorul sat de după Vadu Izei, la 5 km în sus spre valea Izei, este Onceşti cu 1,500 de locuitori. Mai multe descoperiri arheologice demonstrează continuitatea aşezării din timpurile preistorice: unelte, bijuterii şi săbii medievale. Satul obişnuia să aibă o biserică frumaosă, din lemn, care este acum la Muzeul Satului, din Sighetu Marmaţiei.

Bârsana este o comună mare, de aproape 5.000 de locuitori, aflat pe malul drept al Izei, la aproape 20 km sud-est de Sighetu Marmaţiei. În afară de drumul principal DJ 186, care urcă pe valea Izei, DJ 185 leagă satul de Ocna Şugatag şi valea Cosău.

Bârsana este unul dintre satele cele mai cunoscute din Maramureş datorită mănăstirii construite destul de recent, care a devenit simbolul Maramureşului şi al arhitecturii din lemn. Mai mult decât atât, aceasta există şi biserica veche din lemn a satului, Intrarea Maicii Domnului în biserică, construită în 1720 ca biserica mănăstirii, care se află pe Lista Moştenirilor Mondiale a UNESCO.

Poienile Izei se află la maxim 4 km distanţă de Glod, spre Botiza şi Şieu; satul este înconjurat de cărările de pe munţii Lăpuş. Este un sat de aproape 1,100 de locuitori cu puternice tradiţii.

Rozavlea este un sat cu peste 4,000 de locuitori, pe partea dreaptă a râului Iza, la 7 km în contra curentului de Strâmtura, şi la cam 37 km de sud-vest de Sighetu Marmaţiei via DJ 186. Cele mai vechi descoperiri sunt din Epoca de Piatră, deşi atestările scrise datează din 1353.

În fiecare an la sfârşitul lui august, se sărbătoresc Zilele Culturale ale Rozei Rozalina, prilej cu care se adună grupuri folclorice care vin din diferite părţi ale regiunii şi ale ţării. Tot atunci, tradiţiile maramureşului sunt discutate în cadrul unui simpozion.

Maramures Geography

Summary: The County of Maramureş is one of the northernmost areas of Romania, just south of the Ukrainian border. The modern administrative county of Maramureş is comprised of three “countries” (ţări) and two zones: the Country of Maramureş, the Country of Lăpuş, the Country of Chioar, the Zone of Codru and the Zone of Baia Mare-Baia Sprie. Out of these five, the Country of Maramureş is the largest, covering about one half of the total surface area of the administrative county. To the north is the Ukraine, beyond the natural border formed by the River Tisa. To the east is Suceava county, to the south-southeast Bistriţa-Năsăud county, to the south Cluj.

In 2003, there were 509,534 inhabitants, out of which 52.5% lived in urban environments and 46.5% in rural areas. The capital city of the county is Baia Mare with 137,318 inhabitants, while other municipalities are Sighetu Marmaţiei, Târgu Lăpuş and Cavnic, and towns are Seini, Baia Sprie, Borşa and Vişeu de Sus.

Winters are very long and as Maramureş is surrounded by mountains, it is quite hard to reach it during the cold season: the roads rising to the mountain passes are mostly closed between November and April.It rains a lot in Maramureş, especially along the valley of the Iza River, due to the southwesterly winds that are caught by the ring of high mountains. In the valleys the yearly precipitation is about 790-820 mm, and in the mountains around 1000-1390 mm.

Vişeu is the wettest zone in Maramureş. There are about 140 rainy days in a year, while there are only about 30 days in a year when it snows. The rains are most common at the beginning of spring, as well as during June and September. The month with the heaviest snowfalls is January. The relief of Maramureş is varied, the altitudes ranging from 200 to 2,300 m above sea level. The land is 43% mountains, 30% hills and plateaux, and 27% flatlands and meadows. The views from the hilltops embrace beautiful green valleys, meandering rivers and snowtopped mountain peaks. Mountains surround the Country of Maramureş: the Maramureş Mountains are to the north-northeast, the Prislop Pass to the east, the Rodna Mountains to the southeast, the Țibleş Mountains to the south, the Lăpuş Mountains to the southwest and the Gutâi and Igniş Mountains to the west. It is here that the Eastern Carpathians - the 300 km long natural divide between Moldavia and Transylvania - reach their highest altitude with Mount Pietrosu (2302 m) in the Rodna Mountains. The single easy point of access into the area is around the town of Sighetu Marmaţiei where the valley of River Tisa forms a wide plain.The Gutâi and the Tibleş Mountains form a part of the longest volcanic chain in Europe (600 km long). The volcanoes are no longer active, but it is possible to see astonishing calderas at the height of 1,000-1,830 m.

Two river systems - the Tisa and the Someş - drain the county. To the north, the Tisa drains the rivers that flow down the surrounding mountains and across the Maramureş basin: Vişeu, with its main tributaries Ruscova and Vaser, and Iza with its main tributaries Mara and Cosău. Săpânţa is another branch of the Tisa, situated on the western borders of Maramureş, but worth mentioning for its two waterfalls of more than 12 m high. The Someş drains the rivers in the southern part of the county: Lăpuş and Sălaj. The River Tisa’s sources are in the Ukraine. From its joining with the River Vişeu in the east to the village of Teceu Mic in the west, the Tisa marks the frontier of Romania with the Ukraine. The valley of Tisa from Vişeu to the village of Bocicoiu Mare is so narrow that the railway is hardly able to carve out its path between the mountain and the riverbed. The view from the train is very beautiful, this being one of the most impressive landscapes in Romania.

Maramureş is characterized by its rolling hills. Thick forests of oak, beech and pine cover many of them, while orchards of apple, plum and cherry trees dominate the surroundings of villages. A rich variety of flora thrives in the hills and among the network of rivers and streams that covers the region. The Maramureş Mountains in the north are among the wildest areas in Eastern Europe, and bears, deer, wolves and lynxes live in the virgin beech forests. The mountains are dotted with beautiful landscapes, small lakes, caves and very interesting and rare flora. The Rodna Mountains, the highest not only in the region of Maramureş but in the long ridge of the Eastern Carpathians, are capped with snow all through the year. These mountains are among the best-preserved natural regions in Europe.

In the Rodna National Park is the Pietrosu Mare Biosphere Reserve, which is included in the UNESCO World Heritage List. The park preserves untouched ecological systems, with many very rare flora and fauna species, such as Lychnis nivalis, a small flower found nowhere else in the world. Here one can see waterfalls, e.g. Cailor Waterfall, which is over 80 metres high, and more than 20 stunningly beautiful glacier lakes, such as Lakes Iezer and Lala.
From Vişeu de Sus it is possible to go up to the wild mountains in a steam engine train (Mocanița), built in 1953. The tracks run for 41 kilometres along the Vaser River up to hamlet of Comanu, and its lumberjack camps, near the Ukrainian border. The Vaser Valley is also a good location for kayaking enthusiasts. The Maramureş Mountains are in general considered among the best places in the region for hiking, paragliding, mountain climbing, cave exploring or bird-watching and photo-safaris.

Vaser Valley and Mocanita

Wood” and “water” are two words that best define Maramureş. The history, the traditions and the life of the people of Maramureş are carved in the wood of the churches and gates, and numerous rivers and streams are spread along the land like a cobweb, forming famous valleys: Mara, Iza, Vişeu, and Vaser.
Among these, of special interest for tourists is the Vaser Valley, which crosses the Maramureş Mountains in the middle of one of the most wild and beautiful landscapes in Romania. The Vaser River is about 60 kilometres long, forming a spectacular canyon-like valley, where precipitous cliffs alternate with dense forests, beautiful clearings and mineral water springs.

The access point to the Vaser Valley is the town of Vişeu de Sus, which is also the starting point for Mocăniţa, a narrow gauge steam train, the only means of transportation in the valley. The railway runs along the Vaser River and is one of the last remaining steam rails still in active use in Europe, and the only one in Romania still used for hauling logs down from the mountains. Built after the First World War for the express task of transporting wood, it is still – surprisingly – used for the original purpose.

Nowadays, in spite of its old age, the steam locomotives have been given one more task: that of transporting tourists. As this place is one of the few where one can ride along in a wagon pulled by steam power, every year the old Mocăniţa attracts thousands of tourists from all over the world, and offers them unforgettable railway trips.
Travellers can go by train all the way up to the end of the valley and back, enjoying the beauty of the nature. It is also possible to stop on the way, get off at one of the several halts, halte, and start a hiking trip to the mountains.

In the Heart of the Mountains
It all starts at the Vişeu de Sus railway station (Căile Ferate Forestiere Vişeu de Sus, or simply CFF Vişeu de Sus). Since this is not a regular railway station, but a forestry station, there are no passenger platforms. The place looks more like a lumberyard than a railway station, smelling of freshly cut wood.
Very early in the morning the Mocăniţa is made ready for the day’s trip. Both the tourist wagons and the forestry wagons are attached to the steam locomotive, wood and water provisions are made – they are the fuel of the steam engine – and the mechanic starts the engine. After some time off the train goes with a long whistle, puffing along the way.
Following the cascading river, the train first passes among the houses of Vişeu de Sus. Then, after about seven kilometres, the tracks start to go deep into the wild forest, passing among the steep cliffs of the gorge, and penetrating the mountains through dark tunnels.
The silence of the nature is broken not only by the on-rushing tumultuous river and the puffs and hisses of the train, but from time to time also by the sharp whistles of the locomotive. The Mocăniţa creeps slowly up the abrupt slopes and often gives the impression that it can no longer advance and that the steam power is not sufficient. However, it manages to continue the journey and carry the tourists to picturesque places. The journey is long and with several stops. As it ascends, the train drops off empty wagons, which are picked up on the return, piled high with logs. The train also stops when locals are taken on board along the way. They use the train to bring cheese down to the town to sell, and to visit nearby villages. Moreover, several fuelling stops are required, as new provisions of water need to be made. Then the locomotive is unhitched from the wagons and is taken to the river. At its return it gives the tourists a strong shake, just to let them know that they should be ready for continuing the trip. The fuel tender also needs to be filled with firewood. The train can also fall off the rails, but at the slow speed of 10 km/hour that poses no danger. The passengers (who are experienced in the matter) help get the train back on the rails using anything they can lay their hands on: cut pieces of wood, chains, axes, or hooks. A forestry tractor that manages to wallow on in the torrent can give the final push so that the trip can continue.
What Else You Should Know Before Getting on the Train
When travelling with the Mocăniţa up the valley one should keep in mind that this is like a journey back in time: after leaving the Vişeu station there is no cell phone signal, and any contact with the modern times is lost; the train is pulled by an antique steam locomotive, and therefore one should pay attention to the soot and sparks that might stain or burn one’s clothes; along the way there are no shops, and provisions of food, water and other consumables have to be made before departure. “Unforeseen” is a key word in the mountains, and it is advisable not to plan anything for the afternoon, as there is no certainty about the return hour: something might break (one has to keep in mind that the line is more than 70 years old and the locomotive can be even older!), and there might be either trees or rocks on the tracks. As the weather in the mountains is very unstable, appropriate shoes, warm clothes and a waterproof coat are necessary. The Vaser Valley is in the border zone, and a valid identity card or passport has to be brought along.

For safety reasons one can get on and off the trains only at the halts, and it is forbidden to jump on or off the train while it is moving. One may only travel in the specially designed passengers’ wagons, and it is strictly forbidden to ride in the production wagons or on the stairs. As these are working trains, one should be very careful when manoeuvres with logs and other equipment are being made. The halts, the majesty of the mountains and the untamed forests, the frenzied river that competes with the noise and sounds of the train, the lumberjacks, the train itself with its conductor, all are a cause for enjoyment, a feeling of adventure, of enchantment. On this train one has to forget the destination, the time it supposedly takes to reach the end of the line, the schedules and other mundane worries of our frantic modern life.

Sapânta- Merry Cemetery

The worldwide fame of Sapânta is due to the unique cemetery that has become an important tourist attraction. Some days the throngs of tourists that assault the cemetery with their cameras ready make one wonder if it really is possible to rest in peace here!
The original character of the cemetery is first of all suggested by its name: Cimitirul Vesel that means The Merry Cemetery. This paradoxical name is due to the vivid colours of the crosses and the amusing or satirical epitaphs carved on them. It is said that this joyful attitude towards death is a legacy of the Dacians who believed in the immortality of the soul and that death was only a passage to a better life. They did not see death as a tragic end, but as a chance to meet with the supreme god, Zalmoxis.
The cemetery dates back to the mid-1930’s and is the creation of the local folk artist Stan Ioan Patras, sculptor, painter and poet rolled in one. Patras used all his skills to create this masterpiece. For half a century the master created hundreds of wooden crosses, carved in a distinctive style, so famous today. After his death in 1977, his work has been carried out by his apprentice, Dumitru Pop Tincu.

The material used for the crosses is oak, which, after being properly cut and dried, is carved by hand. On the upper part of each cross is a bas-relief with a scene that describes the life of the deceased. The scenes are simple and naïve in style, but have an undeniable power: they bring back to life the inhabitants of the village and present their main occupation or a relevant aspect (either a virtue or a flaw) of their life. There are women spinning wool or weaving rugs, housewives baking bread, men cutting wood, farmers ploughing the land, shepherds tending their sheep, carpenters working the wood, musicians playing their instruments, butchers chopping lambs, teachers at their desks, alcoholics drinking, and so on.
After the carving is done, the cross is painted. The background colour is a distinctive vivid blue, called “Sapânta blue“. Then the scene and the geometrical and floral decorations of the borders are painted with vibrant colours, yellow, red, white and green.

No cross is complete without a short poem, a few simple rhymes (between 7 and 17), carved under the image. The epitaphs are written in the local dialect. Sincere, spontaneous and written in the first person, they are messages from the dead persons to the living world. The style is usually lyrical, but ironic or satirical rhymes are also frequent. Each poem contains the name of the deceased and presents briefly an essential aspect of his/her life, personality or habits; they can even talk about things that happened after the death of the person, at the burial for example, or describe how death occurred. Bad habits are humorously presented, but with a deeply moralizing intent.One famous epitaph is:
Underneath this heavy cross Lies my mother-in-law poor Had she lived three days more I would be here and she would read You that are passing by Try not to wake her up For if she comes back home She’ll bite my head off But I will act in the way That she will not return Stay here my dear Mother-in-law.

The grave marker of Stan Ioan Patras, the creator of the Merry Cemetery:

Ever since a little boy

I was called Stan Ion Patras

Please listen to me good folks

What I say are not lies

All the days that I lived

I never wished ill for anyone

But all the good that I could

To whoever asked for it

Oh this poor world of mine

So hard was my life in it.
Here I rest

And Gheorghe Pop is my name

Like a handsome mountain fir

I was in my parents’ yard

Young and kind-hearted

There were not many like me in the village

When I finished the army

I bought myself a car

And the whole country I toured

Many friends I found

Many friends that were kind

The way I liked

When I was to live my youth

In the earth I rot.
With these images and the short poems, Stan Ioan Pătraş and Dumitru Pop Tincu have managed to recreate the entire village at the cemetery and give the people a second life beyond the grave. The more than 800 painted crosses constitute a vast archive that preserves, carved in wood, the stories of the people of Săpânţa.